It is with pure joy and restless motivation that I write this post. I am so overwhelmed right now. Just days after celebrating the 14 year anniversary of my first 9a ascent (Il Domani) I sent a new linkup between Joe Blau (8c+) and Papichulo (9a+) and I think it could be dubbed Patxitxulo 9a/+ (5.14d/5.15a). 


Not long ago I also imagined another linkup between these two lines that takes the easier link higher up in the line and we call it Joe Chulo (8c+/5.14d). 

This new link up seemed logical to me, requiring pure resistence as it crosses the crux of Joe Blau and the second hard section of Papichulo. The sheer endurance and pumpyness of this line makes me feel that it is similar to its neighboring line, Papichulo. However, I haven’t yet clipped the chains of Papichulo, falling from the top of the line just a week ago. Temperatures since have gone up. 


All of these links lately have really come about by my “lack of focus” on just one particular route and my desire to train on the rock in Oliana. I’m currently trying Power Inverter (9a+), Pachamama (9a+), Joe Mama (9a+) and Papichulo (9a+). Trying them all without pressuring myself too much on just one line has been a strategical move that, hopefully, will pay off. 


I am excited about this link – not just because it was something I imagined but because it is possibly the hardest thing I have done since 2007. It is the first 9th grade climb I’ve pulled off since climbing Seta Total in Cuenca.  It feels so good to slowly be working my way back to where I was before my break from climbing. I am more motivated than ever and happy to see that my PUCtraining has been paying off. I am excited to see what will happen over the next few months. I finally feel like I’ve come back! This is just the beginning of the road to discovery. 

*All images from Javi Pec. 

  • Today and yesterday I have been sharing motivation and trining information with a psyched group of climbers for Rockbusters in Monobloc.

  • This past month I held two workshops in the U.K. and will be in Klättercentret in Stockholm next month. I’m looking forward to the event! 
  • We have recently restocked our online store. Products featured from this climb: 
  1. Il Domani
  2. PUC chalk
  3. PUC brush