It is always great to receive to news of one of your ambassadors sending a hard route, especially when you are able to spend time with them personally days before and know how badly they want it.
Seb Bouin has recently sent “La Novena Enmienda”9a/9a+ in Santa Linya. The route was established by ambassador Andrada over a decade ago.
https://twitter.com/pucseries/status/824048467806920705
Below we have included Seb’s personal story about the excitement behind climbing this route despite injury.
“In December, during the time I was working as sport teacher, I was training in Paris in order to prepare myself for “La Rambla” (9a+ Siurana).
Yet, one week before going to Siurana I injured my finger, it was a pulley… So, climbing “La Rambla” wasn’t possible; there are some crimps in the crux.
I had to find a project without crimps, but where??? Santa Linya was the solution. In fact, even if it was hurting I was able to try the route : “la novena enmienda”9a/9a+.
I was able to do all the sections in the first go, yet the route is around 50 meters in a big overhang.
The difficulty was to not injure more the finger. In fact, I had to be careful with my finger and my shape. I couldn’t try the route tired. And some days, when my finger was hurting, I couldn’t climb, and I needed to wait. Sometimes for many days.
I was scared about this injury, that’s why I am happy that I did this route, it’s good for my mind, and good for the next.
Even if it’s not my maximum level, I enjoy to do something where I put energy and risk.”
https://twitter.com/pucseries/status/824044264984346624
(Both images from Raphael Fourau)
Sometimes climbing isn’t always about clipping the chains, though, but rather the work it takes to get there.
For those of you following this daily PUC Training journey with Sasha DiGiulian, today was the second day of personal training.
https://twitter.com/sashadigiulian/status/823953804450299904
1st session at Boulder Planet
Coordination and technical boulders
Hard bouldering • Campusing
https://twitter.com/pucseries/status/824054218642300929
2nd Session at Sharma Climbing
35 movement traverses x 4
Core • Stretching • Nutrition
(Total training time 5h)
(Training with friends like Chris Sharma around is always a bonus.)
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